Christmas and the Chinese connection

OPINION:

I must have been about 4 years old on that Christmas, the first in my memory. In Germany, where I was born into a non-practicing Jewish family, Christmas is celebrated on the evening of the 24th, rather than on the 25th. The tree arrived on the 23rd, erected in the dining room, and decorated by the grownups.

Each person in the family had his or her own table on which the unwrapped presents were heaped. The children were not allowed to see the tree until the first star came out on the 24th when the dining room doors were opened. The room was dark, except for the glow of the candles on the beautifully decorated tree.

That Christmas, I was thrilled with anticipation and excitement. When the dining room door opened, the first thing I saw was the Christmas angel flying out the window. To this day, I can still see the angel’s billowing white dress. I know it was just the curtain by the open window, But I like to believe that it really was the angel.

Germany is credited with starting the Christmas tree tradition in the 16th century when devout Christians brought decorated trees into their homes. Martin Luther, the 16th century Protestant reformer, may have been the first to add lighted candles to the Christmas tree. As he was walking one winter evening, he noticed the stars twinkling among the evergreens in his path. To recapture the sight, he attached lighted candles to an evergreen tree he brought into his family home.

German settlers brought the Christmas tree to the New World as early as 1747, but it was not until the mid-19th century that the Christmas tree finally found its place in America.

For believing American Jews, Christmas-time was not a festive time. There was nothing celebratory at home, and no place to dine out as restaurants were closed. Eastern European Jews and the Chinese were living near one another in Manhattan’s lower East Side at the turn of the 20th century when the wave of Eastern European immigrants arrived and the Chinese moved East after working on the trans-continental railroads. Both were “outsider” groups.

Chinese restaurants were open on Christmas, and provided a convivial atmosphere with shared dishes. Moreover, Chinese cuisine does not contain milk, an important fact for Jews who do not mix meat and milk in Kosher cooking. American Jews turned to Chinese restaurants as the place to go on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. A tradition was born. Today in Washington, there is no shortage of restaurants open on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, but the tradition continues.

Mei Wah (1200 New Hampshire Avenue,NW; 4457 Willard Avenue,Chevy Chase) is owned by Larry La who came to this country as a young Chinese man, one of the “boat people” fleeing Saigon at the end of the Vietnam war. His restaurants serve an extensive menu of consistently well-prepared dishes from all over China. Portions are ample and easily shared. Prices range from $3.50 for hot and sour soup to $38 for lobster, with most main courses in the $17 to $19 range.

Hot appetizers include very good fried meat dumplings and tiny steamed vegetarian dumplings; snow peas are crunchy and tasty in a velvety ginger sauce. Slices of roast pork are flavorful but on the tough side. Among the cold starters are excellent spicy, tangy Chinese cabbage; seaweed salad; and smooth sesame noodles.

As in most American Chinese restaurants, sugar is used more freely than in China. One of the best main dishes is a chef specialty of thin strips of crispy caramelized beef, served with cold shredded carrots and cabbage. Shredded pork in garlic sauce is another excellent, fragrant, spicy dish, as are jumbo shrimp in a sweet-spicy tomato sauce. Steamed whole fish Cantonese style is another of the chef’s specials, as is lobster with ginger and scallions in a brown sauce.

String beans tend to be hit or miss, prepared sometimes crisp-tender, and at other times overcooked and limp. Eggplant in garlic sauce, on the other hand, is aromatic and lightly spiced. The menu includes half a dozen noodle dishes, but the restaurant’s “chef’s special noodles” are bland with barely a suggestion of vegetables, shrimp and meat. Chinese spaghetti with meat sauce is a livelier dish. Moo shu pork, served with thin pancakes, is another satisfying dish.

Meiwah also serves a crispy whole fish Hunan style, with shredded vegetables, and Peking duck. Lamb is prepared Hunan style with vegetables or Kung Pao style with peanuts, as well as other variations. The restaurants will saute a number of dishes, such as lemon or orange chicken, traditionally deep fried, upon request. There are dozens of fine options, both spicy and subtle.

Other excellent Chinese restaurants around the area include delicate and flavorful dumplings served at Shanghai Lounge (1734 Wisconsin Avenue,NW). In Northern Virginia, President George H.W. Bush’s favorite Chinese restaurant, Peking Gourmet Inn (6029 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church) specializes in Peking duck. Asian Origin (1753 Pinnacle Drive, McLean) offers authentic Szechuan dishes, including superb steamed or fried chive dumplings and such dishes as Chairman Mao’s braised pork and Chengdu chicken with preserved red and green chiles.

Wherever you are this Christmas, may it be a happy, joyous and peaceful celebration.

• Corinna Lothar is a Washington writer, critic and frequent contributor to The Times.